The Car: 1994 Talon TSi AWD
0-60 in 6.4 seconds stock
254hp at 17psi (street)
Tan Leather Interior
Deep Green Metallic Exterior[G36/PGK]
-14 (off the bottom of thescale) = 1st selection (4000)
-7 = 2nd selection (4500)
0 = 3rd selection (4875)
+7 = 4th selection (5125)
+14 = 5th selection (5500)
With the default 6000 RPM no lift to shift rev limit do you have a guestimate of what RPM you should shift at to come into the next gear properly at 6k RPM?
Please set the Valet mode rev limit to 3700 RPM
Also my car is a California 94 car, but I am not sure of the ECU. The cover reads for a 91-92 GVR4 ECU (Federal MT MD165810, E2T37378, 0717E), but the internals read differently with:
EB21 on chip
0879E on connector
5810 on the side with E2T37378E
Board number is E331B989
Resistor on R130 but NOT R129
I have a 90 motor with no EGR. If you could remove this CEL that would be wonderful.
Eric Jones recommended that if you could bump down the knock sensitivity a bit that would be beneficial to me. I was getting alot of phantom knock. If possible set the resolution more similar to a 2g knock sensor
One note for your webmaster is that your DNS entry for
http://dsmchips.com does not forward people to
http://www.dsmchips.com . Both
methods will work in internet explorer, but not in many other browsers.
This may lead
possible customers to think your site is down.
I purchased the car from Arnie at AMS with 121,200 miles on the clock. Transmission shifts good, newer motor put in after Mark killed the last one. Paid $4,800
Had the Dunlop Winter Sport M3 (205/55R16) put on and balanced. Noticed some vibration on engine braking below 2.5kRPM, but its probably the new tires (went away after a few days). Cleaned a ton of dog hair out of the back seat, cleaned the hell out of the rest of the car. Installed the new steering wheel and horn. Turn signals did not work until the car got very warm again, they work fine now. Steering may be one notch too far clockwise.
Got the washer reservoir bottle from Mark and reinstalled it. Installed a Pioneer Premier DEH-p750MP and the old Kenwood KSC-WA801 8 inch subwoofer that I had from my ford escort.
Installed the remote start. Still need to install brake wire so someone cannot drive away with the car and so that the car runs properly. Horn function does not work... looking into it. May use turbo timer mode. System is the CrimeStopper RS-1304DP, and works fairly well. It has an auto sensing start feature that automatically detects a raise in voltage so that you do not have to hook up the tach signal, this is sometimes difficult on DSMs so its a nice feature, and the system cost $60. The remote also has a nice flashlight feature.
Replaced the hatch struts. The front two bolts on the lower brackets had broken. I also rewired the headlights after doing a 9005 mod and getting new headlight housings. For some reason the relay won't de-energize and always stays on after being switched on. I also repainted the up-pipe, rear wiper, door trim, and the panel that covers the throttle cable. I installed the DSMChips chip and had a problem with the clutch cut wire. The main problem is my switch which I will either repair the broken spring or replace. I also rewired the rear driver speaker properly.
Repaired the clutch switch spring and stutterbox works VERY well now :). Decided to rewire the headlights by rewiring the stock relay rather than adding one. This should be cleaner and generally work better and will allow me to clean the engine bay a bit more. Soldered and installed a cable to use with MMCd to log. It seems the O2 sensor is a little worn and may need to get replaced.
Had the car at AMS. Got revised 3G lifters to combat some phantom knock and had the AFC tuned for the new chip. Also got a hard 3" intake for some better airflow to the turbo. An FMIC would be a great mod for this car as the 16g pushes out alot of hot air at these boost levels.
Removed the charcoal canister and cleaned up some of the axle grease/oil from the engine bay. Looked for the problem with the cruise, none found yet. Removed the AC line that runs up to the bumper and tied the other to the firewall with a zip tie to help with Phantom Knock. I also decided to request stutterbox by speed only if I get another chip. Asked DSMchips forums about putting a 2g sensor in a 1g with ECU code. I decided to put in High output LEDs for floor illumination and put in a new door switch for the interior lights, the passenger side is missing one wire though.
I also replaced the PCV valve to solve my recent Idle problems and found a cracked and stripped hole, hopefully it will not need to be replaced. In searching I found that my ISC had a bad coil that basically tested as an open circuit (above 1.5k of resistance). Information about ISC repair/testing can be found here and here.
Installed the new speakers in the car, rewired the dash channels to be powered by the XA92 amp. Also installed the wire so the passenger door switch works (and installed the switch).
Fixed a leak at the injector seal on cylinder 2, car pulls much harder, holds boost better, and doesn't get a single count of knock through 3rd gear. If I get some rims for the 2g hopefully those tires can go on this car for some summer AWD fun. These windows need to get re-tinted sometime now that this car looks so sexy!
2g's tires are on this car... whoa grip! I also installed DSMLink... I think it was foolish to think that a chip + AFC would be anywhere near as flexible or tunable as this! DSMLink is the best mod, hands down, for any DSM (unless you are a qualified AEM tuner...). I also put on the lower intercooler pipe, replaced the boost controller and turbo outlet elbow, had AMS do a partial install on the LC-1 and finished it off, and will be putting on an AMS style upper intercooler pipe to prevent the BOV from hitting the hood.